Minimalist chic
by Yasmin Maassarani

Yasmin Maassarani reviews Reynard's restaurant at the Errigal Country House Hotel, Cootehill.

I sampled the fine fayre at Reynard's restaurant on a beautiful evening. The open plan eating area allowed the bright evening sunshine to cast a radiant glow over the minimalist, yet luxurious surroundings.

The dining area is separated into two parts by an exposed brick archway ensuring that wherever you are seated, you are assured an intimate evening.

Gorgeous oak wooden flooring is echoed in the large wooden panelled windows whose low sills and extensive glazed area explained the wonderful rays of sunshine filling the restaurant. What's more, they allow you to gaze at fabulous views of the surrounding countryside while you dine.

Quality fittings complete the picture. Two spectacular modern chandeliers are a definite focal point and complement the cream walls and the rich burnt orange, crimson and cream striped chairs and window blinds.

I was particularly impressed with the menu which offered an interesting and unusual range of fish, poultry, meat and vegetarian dishes. According to the menu, head chef, Des Nugent's "philosophy is to create an exciting, innovative cuisine based on classical European techniques." And on first impression, he certainly had done so.

The starters offered many tempting dishes, so after much deliberation I opted for the Duckling Spring Roll - marinated duckling and oriental vegetables in a house dipping sauce (€9). My partner opted for spinach crepes filled with Dublin Bay prawns in a delicious Veloute sauce (€9.50).

The presentation of both starters was first class. The spinach in my dining partner's crepe had given it a mouthwatering shade of green. It was placed diagonally across the plate with a small amount of freshly tossed salad to each side. The tiger prawns temptingly oozed out of the crepe onto the plate.

My starter comprised one large spring roll which had been cut into half and rested on mixed fresh salad. The spring roll was amply filled with shredded duckling and oriental vegetables. The filling itself had a gentle spicy kick and the soft vegetables contrasted superbly with the crispy pastry of the spring roll - simply delicious!

For the main course I chose the baked atlantic salmon topped with a horseradish crust served with a creamed leek sauce (€18), whereas my dining partner chose roast half duckling with a date and apricot stuffing drizzled with a fresh plum sauce (€20).

Once again the presentation was impeccable. The main courses were served with a large portion of boiled potatoes, a serving of garlic potatoes and fresh seasonal vegetables. In addition, each main course was served on a cylinder of champ. As a nice touch the champ had been lightly grilled to given it a crispy outer layer.

I was served a large fillet of salmon which rested diagonally across the champ while a creamy leek sauce was delicately drizzled around the outer edge of my plate. In fact, it looked too good to eat - well almost! The pink flesh of my salmon just flaked away from the horseradish crust with ease - it was so succulent. My partner's duckling looked equally appetising, and was also cooked to perfection, plus it was very generous in size.

Throughout the meal, I couldn't fault the service. Both the maitre d' and our waitress were friendly, relaxed and attentive at all times. What's more, they paid equal attention to every customer within the restaurant.

For dessert we were offered another array of innovative and interesting sounding sweets. I chose the milk chocolate and orange mousse with cointreau (€5.50) and my partner, the bramley apple tart topped with a hazelnut crumble served with a crumble ice-cream (€5.50).

A criss-cross pattern of cream and coulis served as a decorative backdrop to my mousse. The delicate milk chocolate flavour perfectly complemented the orange, and there was just the right hint of the alcoholic cointreau. It was truly divine! My partner's dessert was an unconventional twist on the popular apple tart and was equally appreciated. We rounded off our meal with tea and after dinner mints.

Reynard's restaurant offers first rate service, an innovative selection of savoury and sweet dishes, plus a gorgeous view of the surrounding countryside from its large windows. And with its seasonally changing menu, you are sure to get a give your tastebuds a treat every time you visit!

Reynard's Restaurant, III Country House Hotel, Cootehill. Reservations: 049 555 6901. The restaurant also offers a five course set dinner menu for €35.

This article appeared in the June 2005 edition of Contemporary Living

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